The Cyclades got their name from the ancient Greek word meaning “to circle,” or “surround,” because the island chain encircles Delos, the island long sacred to the god Apollo. Today, especially in the summer, it’s the visitors who circle these islands, taking advantage of the swift island boats and hydrofoils that link them. If you were to come up with a few words to describe the best-known Cycladic islands (roughly from north to south), Tinos would probably be called the “Lourdes of Greece.” The sea and sky really are bluer here than elsewhere, the islands on the horizon always tantalizing. In short, the Cyclades are very “more-ish:” once you’ve visited one, you’ll want to see another, and then another, and then, yes, yet another.
1/ Sifnos
Everyone falls in love with at least one of the Cyclades; we fell in love with Sifnos. Some say that Naxos is the greenest of the Cyclades—if you’ve been to Sifnos, you can only assume that those who give Naxos pride of place have not. Perhaps it is because Sifnos keeps its riches concealed within a hilly interior— and has a rather desultory port. But once your are inland, you will see elegantly ornamented dovecotes above cool green hollows, while ancient fortified monasteries and watchtowers occupy the arid summits of the island’s hills. The slate and marble paths across the island are a miracle of care, and beauty. The island is a hiker’s—even a stroller’s—delight. In addition, beaches along the southern coast offer long stretches of fine amber sand; several smaller rocky coves are also excellent for swimming.
2/ Syros (Siros)
Siros offers a rare opportunity to vacation as the Greeks do. Excellent food, a long tradition of the popular music known as rembetika, glorious little-known beaches, and the most energetic island capital in the Cyclades are among its pleasures. The island’s capital, Ermoupolis is also the administrative capital of the Cyclades. In the 19th century, this was the busiest port in Greece—far busier than Piraeus—and a center of ship-building. You’ll see several surviving shipyards along the harbor. Signs of the island’s former affluence are concentrated in the vicinity of the harbor, where neoclassical mansions abut the rocky waterfront and grandiose public buildings line spacious squares. Although Ermoupolis saw a considerable period of design in the 20th century, recent restoration efforts have brought back much of the glory of the city’s heyday; several of the most elaborate mansions have been restored as homes and others have been converted to hotels and guesthouses. Other signs of urban revival are a busy calendar of lively public events and some of the best food in the Cyclades.
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